No-Dig Gardening: An Easier Way to Grow

, written by Benedict Vanheems gb flag

Deep beds made using no-till methods

You dig, you toil, you reap the rewards. But just how necessary is digging? Have you ever stopped to consider the logic of turning over the soil, season after season, year after year? After all, Mother Nature doesn’t use a spade! It’s no wonder, then, that the practice of ‘no-dig’ or ‘no-till’ gardening is gaining ground with gardeners across the world.

In this video and article we’re going to explore just how no-dig gardening can save you time and effort – and all while boosting the health and vitality of your soil.

The Downside of Digging

There’s no getting around the fact that digging is hard work, but conventional wisdom says it’s worth it. The logic goes that digging helps you to incorporate nutrient-boosting organic matter such as compost, while creating looser, fluffier soil for sowing and planting. But does it?

Consider the myriad of soil life that’s disrupted every time we dig, from bacteria to earthworms, ground beetles to fungi. Tearing at the soil disrupts this intricate web of life, setting back the natural processes that lead to healthy soil.

Leave soil undug and soil organisms can thrive undisturbed, which is good news for plants. And it also allows for a more natural balance between soil pests and their predators.

Regular digging, especially double-digging where the soil is dug to the depth of two spade blades, quickly tires you out. And it’s not great for your back either. So why do it?

Digging is tiring and it’s disruptive to soil life – so why not ditch the spade?

How to Make New No-Dig Beds

Digging isn’t even necessary when setting out new growing areas. Start by clearing the surface of any debris and any rocks larger than a hen’s egg. Mow down grass or cut back weeds to the ground. Now add a thick layer of well-rotted organic matter. This will suppress the growth of the weeds beneath by blocking out light, and provide nutrient-rich material for roots to grow into. Lay it at least four inches (10cm) deep. Suitable organic matter includes compost, or manure from a trusted source where you can guarantee no herbicides have been used.

Fast forward a few months and any grass and weeds below will have rotted down, while earthworms will work to gradually incorporate the organic matter into the soil below.

If there are lots of weeds on the ground where you want to grow, lay down a layer of cardboard before adding your organic matter. Thoroughly wet the cardboard to help it break down. The cardboard will serve as a further barrier to weeds, exhausting and eventually killing most of them off. Once the growing season gets underway, you’ll find that any weeds that do manage to make it through will be much easier to remove.

Cardboard can be laid to kill weeds and mark out paths

Mark out paths between the beds using thick cardboard laid with generous overlaps. This will help to kill off the weeds between growing areas. You can cover the cardboard with bark chips or similar later.

If the organic matter in your bed is still lumpy at planting time, start vegetable seedlings off in plug trays or pots to plant out once they’ve grown a sturdy root system. This will also make it easy to space plants out at exactly the right distance, saving you time thinning out rows of seedlings.

Fast forward a few months and any grass and weeds below will have rotted down, while earthworms will work to gradually incorporate the organic matter into the soil below.

Mimic Mother Nature

A common variation is to use materials that are readily available to nourish and build soil. Popularised by organic gardener Paul Gautschi in his ‘Back to Eden’ method, materials such as woodchips are used to mimic Mother Nature’s infinite ability to recycle nutrients.

Adding a layer of wood chippings on top of a newly-made bed helps mimic nature

Let’s make a bed using this method. Start by laying a thick layer of paper or cardboard over cleared ground. Add around four inches (10cm) of compost, then add a layer of woodchips about two inches (5cm) deep, taking care not to mix the two layers. Then simply push aside the woodchips to plant into the compost beneath. You could of course use other materials such as leafmold or hay in place of woodchips. The secret of this top layer is to slow down evaporation and constantly feed the soil below, so that no additional fertilisers are ever required.

Mulches Not Spades

The secret behind any no-till garden lies in regular mulching with organic matter. Mulches cover the soil’s surface, protecting it from erosion, locking in soil moisture and suppressing weeds. As they rot down they add fertility to the soil while at the same time improving its structure, without the need to dig. In no-dig gardening, mulching replaces digging.

Replace old mulch as it rots down or becomes incorporated into the soil, so that the ground is being constantly fed and gradually built up. Add mulches around mature plants or wait until the end of the growing season. Suitable mulches include compost, leafmould, hay, woodchips, grass clippings, straw and sawdust. Mulches also need to be weed seed-free, so they’re not self-defeating.

Adding sides to your beds helps contain the soil as repeated mulching raises the soil level

No-Dig Gardening

No-dig gardening suits gardens of every size, including small, city plots. Aim for beds no wider than four feet (1.2m) and you’ll never need to step on the soil inside. This helps to prevent the soil from becoming compacted, which lessens still further the need to reach for the spade. Using raised beds is not essential, but the sides do help to contain all that additional organic matter.

Over time the weeds in a no-till garden become few and far between as mulches work to weaken weeds by smothering them. And because you’re not digging, weed seeds in the soil below need never come to the surface to germinate. No-dig really does save you time!

It’s a wonder any of us still dig! No-dig gardening is kinder to our backs, the crops we grow, and the precious soil we grow in. If you’re already a no-dig convert we’d love to hear from you. What method do you use, and what sort of difference has it made to your gardening? Let us know in the comments section below.

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Show Comments


"A question regarding using wood chips over compost on no-till garden: woody wood chips leach too much nitrogen from compost and soil while breaking down? "
Paula T on Saturday 13 January 2018
"Hi Paula. Wood chips take up a very small amount of nitrogen as they decompose, so the argument goes they shouldn't be added to the soil as they'll cause nitrogen depletion. However, the effect if very minimal. We recommend not mixing the wood chips with the compost too, so that they don't cause as much depletion from the compost layer. You can push the wood chips aside at planting or sowing time, so that the young plants/seedlings aren't affected. But I really wouldn't worry too much about the wood chips' impact on nitrogen levels"
Ben Vanheems on Sunday 14 January 2018
"Hi Benedict. I am starting to experiment with no-dig on my fairly heavy clay. I mulched my fruit garden (16 trees plus fruit bushes) with 4 inches of woodchips (got free from tree surgeons) 3 years ago and top it up each year. The fruit loves it and I was surprised how soft the soil was when I planted bulbs through it last autumn. The oldest woodchips at the bottom are making a lovely black compost and there are many many worms in that soil. This winter I got several tons of chopped autumn leaves from the council from the local parks and I have covered half the veg patch with a 4-6 inch mulch of them and plan to plant through this mulch in the spring and summer, rather than stack them for a year and them move them again. In the past I have rotovated in all sorts of muck and compost and green manures, so the soil is healthy and has no nasty weeds, but I like the thought of no dig if its kinder to soil life. Any thoughts on using fresh autumn leaves this way?"
Tony Shore on Monday 22 January 2018
"I think using fresh leaves in this way would be fine Tony. Over the winter they'll have settled right down to perhaps a half inch thick, so pushing the leaves aside to plant shouldn't present too much of a problem. This is, after all, how nature recycles leaves. The worms will eventually 'dig' the leaves in for you. The only word of caution is that lots of loose leaves could potentially provide ideal conditions for slugs, but I think the benefits probably outweigh any cons. Let us know how you get on with this approach."
Benedict Vanheems on Tuesday 23 January 2018
"Hi, would this work on poorly drained soil that seems to be quite wet most of the time? I'm thinking that as the organic matter is added it would raise the plants up out of water-logged soil? "
Oona on Friday 26 January 2018
"It could do, though it is not guaranteed. Certainly adding more organic matter will help to improve the soil so that it drains better and gets less waterlogged. If it is seriously waterlogged though, you may need to look at other solutions first, such as underground drainage pipes."
Ben Vanheems on Monday 29 January 2018
"I'm about to start preparing some no-dig beds in a community garden - it'll be a small proportion of the total (1/4 acre) as we don't have access to such large amounts of organic matter. But just to be devil's advocate here, I'm not looking forward to the back-breaking work of loading compost into a wheelbarrow and barrowing down to the beds - nobody seems to mention that! "
Alison. on Saturday 17 February 2018
"Hi Alison. You're absolutely right about the wheelbarrowing and shovelling on of the organic matter. But it is definitely easier (and quicker) than digging. Worth mentioning, though, that there is still some physical effort involved. Good luck creating your no-dig beds."
Ben Vanheems on Monday 19 February 2018
"You suggest in your article to lay the compost early in winter to let it incorporate over time. Winter here in Southeast coastal US can be measured in days, so I'm afraid that I've let that part go past me. In that case is it too late to simply add a layer of compost to help re-nourish last year's soil, or should I add more pre-prepared organic garden soil (with maybe some organic fertilizer)? I already have starter seed sprouting in peat pots ready to transplant within a couple of weeks. Thanks so much. Angus"
Angus Campbell on Monday 19 February 2018
"Hi Angus. Yes, just add a layer of compost to help re-nourish last year's soil. That will really help to enrich the ground ready for your transplants in a few weeks."
Ben Vanheems on Monday 19 February 2018
"What do you do with the finished tomato crop. Ground level prune and add compost on top or pull roots and all? Also how would a no dig person add bokashi directly to the garden? Bokashi is suggested to dig a trench and cover. I was thinking to lay on surface and cover with compost. Thanks "
Alan Shrimpton on Wednesday 21 February 2018

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